Raymond Lubrano knows a thing or two about Italian wine. Ask him for a nice chianti and you'll get a 10-minute conversation and probably buy a jewel you've never seen before. It could be a $15 Salice Salentino or it could be a $75 Gavi.

Gavi for $75?

"It's for me," he shrugs. Or anyone with the moxie to buy one.

We weren't about to buy $75 wine for summer sipping, but we thought this would be the place to go to find which white wines Italians drink in warmer weather.

A native of Naples, Italy, Raymond came to the United States in 1971 and quickly established himself in the local restaurant scene. But it's his passion for wine that drives him every day. Ask him for a recommendation and you'll most likely get a tour of his vast collection of Italian wines.

Like most Europeans, Italians favor whatever grapes are grown in their area. In Trentino, it's pinot grigio; in Raymond's hometown in the Campania grape region, it's falanghina.

Say what?

"Falanghina or greco di tufo. Maybe avellino," he says of his favorites.

Like most Italians, Raymond grew up with grapes growing in his back yard.

"We had so many grapes in our yard my parents would just mix them up when they made wine," he says.

Was it any good?

"It was fantastic."

Italian wines tend to be lighter and sometimes nondescript, but it's their simplicity that makes them great sippers or easy matches to fish and fowl. But don't assume they are all simple, as our tasting showed.

Raymond says wine is Italy's culture. "I can drive 10 miles away from my house and people talk differently, eat different foods and drink different wines. You love every minute of it," he says.

He says Italy is unique because there are more than 200 different grape varieties grown there. "I can't even tell you all their names," he says.

Walking around the Italian Market is a tour of Italy with some of those 200 grape varieties you probably haven't heard of. The wines are discounted below the prices we quote below:

* Picco de Sole Falanghina 2007 ($15). An old grape traced to Roman times, falanghina is similar to pinot grigio with apple and citrus noses, lively acidity and a touch of almonds. It was our favorite white wine in the group. Not surprisingly, it's one of Raymond's favorites too. No wonder, it is made in Campania near his hometown of Naples.

* La Carraia Fiano 2007 ($15). From the island of Sicily, this simple wine has pit fruit flavors and a hint of almonds. Crisp acidity makes it a refreshing drink for warm days

* Dinari del Duca Grillo 2007 ($24). Soft, lemon and pear notes with a hint of mineral.

* La Carraia Algianico 2007 ($17). We loved the generous, simple fruit in this red wine from Sicily. Berry aromas with a hint of anise and forward blackberry fruit in a medium body.

* Barbi Orvieto Classico Arche 2006 ($25). Some other white grapes such as chardonnay and grechetto are blended into this intriguing white wine from Umbria. Generous aromas with complex, ripe fruit and toasty oak. An elegant wine for the dinner table.

* La Scolca Gavi Biano Secco 2006 ($75). OK, you're not really going to pay this kind of money for a Gavi, are you? Raymond hopes not because he gets so little of this. Hmm, maybe the reason for the discouraging price is he wants it for himself.

* La Guardiense Greco di Tufo 2006 ($19). Over the years, we have developed a taste for this ancient grape variety grown in Campania. It's aroma can be off-putting, but the flavors are just something you haven't tasted before. You search for a comparison and can't find it. It's a simple wine with good acidity to make it a match to fish.

Other Italian wines

* Rocca di Monte Massi Vermentino 2007 ($15). Floral nose, citrus notes and crisp acidity. Delicious apertif.

* Vincent Sant Helena Pinot Grigio 2006. Dark golden color, intense grapefruit flavors. Fruity and delicious.

* Tenuta Ca'Bolani Pinot Grigio ($15). This estate is Italy's larget single vineyard for pinot grigio. Located in Friuli, it produces grapes for a wine that is still crisp but not overly so. Green apples and pears with a touch of spice dominate the flavor profile.

* Cecchi Val delle Rose Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2004 ($22). We really loved this Italian wine for its lively Tuscan fruit. Made from mostly sangiovese grapes, it has an aromatic berry nose with plum flavors and a hint of spice. A great pasta wine.

* Melini Chianti Classico "Isassi" 2006 ($17). Founded in 1705, Melini turns out a dependable, consistent chianti. Aged a year in Limousin oak, it sports violent aromas and dark berry, raspberry flavor with easy tannins.

Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr can be contacted by mail c/o The Capital, P.O. Box 911, Annapolis, MD 21404. Marquardt can be e-mailed at tmarq@annap.infi.net.