'This is what I love to do' Davenport chef jumps every hurdle to open a restaurant of her own

The owner and executive chef behind Cavort, the upscale restaurant and bar at 229 Brady Street, started her career a few blocks over but originally had dreams that reached beyond the Quad-Cities.

"I was very much the person that wanted to know whatever California was," she said. "I wanted to go and travel and find a coast or beach or something like that but I ended up starting to bartend and I quickly moved into the kitchen."

The "Davenport born and raised" chef started her career with an education from the Scott Community College culinary program. In need of student hours, she began working at the Bass Street Chop House in Moline.

"I learned a ton a little bit quicker with being in the kitchen environment," adding she moved up from prep cook to sous chef within two years. "It was a great ride and I loved every second of it."

Her next endeavor was at the short-lived downtown Davenport restaurant Roam — owned by brothers Dylan and Griffin Stiel. The restaurant opened in December 2018 on River Drive with a concept of small plates and sharables with no TVs and a focus on the food and environment.

"The brothers very much had mad love for the Quad-Cities and wanted to bring something really cool and unique here because they're big travelers," she said. "I fell in love with that idea because the Quad-City people deserve something cool. We shouldn't always have to go to Des Moines or Chicago. We can build it right here and never have to leave."

When that portion of downtown Davenport severely flooded the following spring, multiple businesses were forced to close. Roam ended up being one of them.

"I was in love with that place. I had a lot of work to do but the flood took us out and every move from there I made out of survival, just trying to stay in the industry," she said.

One of her first moves was to team up with fellow chefs to offer a pop-up kitchen at a local brewery with proceeds going to flood relief. It was a massive success and soon Vrana became the owner of Fat Sacks, a late-night fast-food alternative.

"It was not your boxed, microwaved or deep-fried stuff. It was really fun takes on fatty items," she said. "We had a walk-up window and it was an indoor food truck concept."

The concept kitchen was located inside another downtown Davenport bar and was wildly successful for a while. Then, COVID-19 came into the picture.

"We closed down for a couple of weeks to make sure everyone was healthy and safe but we needed a plan because things were so crazy at that time," she said. "Finally it got to the point where we were like, 'Here we are again. A disaster has taken us out, so we have to make a move.'"

Take-out foods skyrocketed in popularity and Vrana took full advantage. The walk-up window stayed busy and attention to the new concept was great for sales, but came with another downside: Not enough room.

Vrana said she quickly outgrew the space and once again had to look for another option. That led her to the doors of the Union Arcade building on the corner of Brady and Third Streets.

Once inside the lobby, elevators take guests upstairs to the 68 apartments that overlook the downtown landscape. On the main floor and just inside the entrance, Vrana turned a former coffee shop and bakery space into an upscale lounge and eatery she named Cavort.

"We called it Cavort because we didn't want to be backed into one concept or idea, but (for the word) to mean jumping and dancing excitedly, that's what we do," she said.

Vrana originally opened the restaurant with a former coworker but has since become the sole owner. The inside of the restaurant is dressed with bold wallpaper, a wall entirely made of greenery and neon signs that add a layer of fun to the sophisticated landscape.

Dark lighting and jewel-toned furniture and curtains accent the room and create spaces comfortable for both business and casual dinners. Vrana calls her style "no-coast tiki," accented by the pineapple and tiki glassware and Caribbean undertones in the drinks.

On the food menu, Vrana made sure her concept hit home with duck wontons and hot crab dip on the bites menu balanced with salmon, burger and chicken options on the plates side. One of her favorite menu options is Yucatan pulled pork nachos which combines bright colors with sweet, salty, crunchy and creamy flavors.

No matter what customers order, Vrana said there is no feeling like watching her food go out the door. After picking herself up time and time again, she's finally found the place where it all comes together she said. That alone is worth jumping and dancing excitedly for.

"It's the highest honor," she said. "It is really truly rewarding. This is the hardest thing I have ever done but I love every second of it and that's why I continue to do it. This is more than making money or seizing an opportunity. This is what I love to do."